MOA Museum of Art Atami: National Treasures, Light Walk & Sea Views

MOA Museum of Art sits on a hilltop above Sagami Bay, reached through a 200-meter escalator tunnel and a Circular Hall of slow projected light. The galleries were redesigned in 2017 by New Material Research Laboratory (NMRL), an architectural studio known for combining premodern Japanese materials with modern museum technology. Inside: three rotating National Treasures, a Golden Tea Room, a Noh stage, and a teahouse, with hilltop gardens overlooking Sagami Bay. This guide covers what to see and how to plan a visit.

Architecture & The Light Walk

At MOA Museum of Art, the 200-meter walk into the museum is the exhibition's first room — a slow climb through tunneled light, with the city falling away behind you.

The Light Walk: Escalator to the Circular Hall

You step off the bus into a long escalator tunnel — deep-toned panels that seem to close in on either side, the light low and hushed as you climb. The everyday recedes; the next gallery is still minutes away. At the midpoint, the tunnel opens without warning into the Circular Hall — a 20-meter-wide underground chamber, 10 meters high, where slow geometric patterns of projected light drift across the ceiling. The room is silent. Many visitors stand still inside the light, heads tilted upward, before continuing to the galleries.

Moore Square: 180-degree Sea Views

Beyond the galleries, the corridor opens into Moore Square, a stone plaza with 180-degree views over Sagami Bay. On a clear day you can see Izu Oshima and Hatsushima offshore, and the Miura and Bōsō Peninsulas on the horizon.

Photography: No flash in the galleries; loaned works cannot be photographed at all. You can take personal photos in the Circular Hall, Moore Square, and along the escalator approach. Gallery photography varies by exhibition.

The 2017 Renewal by NMRL: Cypress, Lacquer & Black Plaster

MOA opened in 1982 and reopened in 2017 after a redesign by New Material Research Laboratory (NMRL) — the architectural studio founded by contemporary artist Hiroshi Sugimoto (New York–based, internationally recognised including the Hasselblad Award) and architect Tomoyuki Sakakida.

Materials:

• Display platforms inside select cases: Yakusugi cypress from Yakushima Island in Kagoshima — trees estimated at 1,500 years old, set into 1.8-meter-deep platforms

• Entrance doors: urushi (Japanese lacquer) by Living National Treasure Kazumi Murose, with the design proposed by Sugimoto

• Walls behind the display cases: black plaster that softens reflections off the display glass

Best time to visit: Arrive at opening (9:30 AM) on a weekday — the escalator approach is empty, and the Circular Hall is at its quietest.

The Three National Treasures

MOA holds three works designated as National Treasures — Japan's highest cultural status, given to about 900 objects nationwide. Each appears periodically on the official exhibition schedule, so they are not always all on view. Always check the official exhibition calendar before you go.

Red and White Plum Blossoms — Ogata Kōrin (1658–1716)

A pair of two-fold gold-leaf folding screens — a white plum tree on the left, a red plum tree on the right, with a stylized stream curving between them. A masterpiece of the Rinpa school, an Edo-period decorative art movement known for gold backgrounds and bold patterning. The screens are designated a National Treasure for the contrast they hold between the realism of the plum trees and the near-graphic abstraction of the central stream — a defining example of Rinpa aesthetics.

Tea Jar with Wisteria Design — Nonomura Ninsei (active c. 1646–1694)

A leaf-tea storage jar painted with cascading purple wisteria flowers in overglaze enamel against a soft cream-toned ground. The work of Nonomura Ninsei, a Kyoto-based potter who perfected overglaze enamel decoration in Japanese ceramics. Designated a National Treasure as the defining work of Kyō ware and one of the high points of Edo-period ceramic art.

Tekagami Kanboku-jō — "Calligraphy Album: Castle of Brush and Ink"

An album of brush-and-ink fragments by Japan's leading calligraphers, spanning the Nara through Muromachi periods (roughly 8th–15th centuries). Tekagami are connoisseur albums of authentic calligraphy specimens cut from older manuscripts and mounted side by side — historically prized as much as paintings. Designated a National Treasure for the breadth of its centuries-spanning range and the rarity of the hands it preserves. In Japan, calligraphy is treated as a fine art on the same level as painting.

Beyond the National Treasures

The collection extends well beyond these three pieces — a substantial holding that also includes designated Important Cultural Properties and Important Art Objects. Beyond the National Treasures themselves, the architecture, gardens, and hilltop sea views give every visit plenty to take in.

Cultural Experiences: Tea, Noh & the Golden Tea Room

Beyond the galleries, MOA preserves three traditional Japanese cultural elements: a recreated Golden Tea Room, a Noh theater, and a teahouse for matcha.

Golden Tea Room

A full reconstruction of the gold-leaf tea room commissioned in the 1580s by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the warlord who unified Japan by 1590. Every interior surface is gilded — walls and ceiling — and the small chamber catches even the dim viewing light, so the air inside seems to glow. Hideyoshi had the original built as a portable structure to project his power. Viewing only — entry is not permitted. Takes about 5 minutes.

Noh Theater

The Noh Theater hosts Noh and related traditional performances on scheduled days through the year. Noh is a Japanese masked dance-theater with more than 600 years of history, built around slow movement, chant, and minimalist staging — a single gesture or a held silence can carry an entire scene. The cypress-roofed stage and painted-pine backdrop set the formal frame the art has used for centuries. Performances are held only on scheduled days, but the stage itself can be viewed any day the museum is open. See MOA's upcoming events page for current and upcoming Noh programs.

Teahouse Ippaku-an

Matcha with a wagashi sweet, made from 100% certified organic tea leaves and served at modern ryurei-style seating — black-lacquer tables and chairs rather than floor seating on tatami. You sip while taking in the genuine tea-ceremony utensils and other artworks set out in the main hall, with the garden in view beyond. Reservations are not accepted — guests are served in the order of arrival. The session takes about 15–20 minutes.

Gardens & Sagami Bay Views

MOA sits within Zuiunkyō (瑞雲郷), a 236,400-square-meter hilltop estate at 250 meters above sea level. The grounds wrap around the museum on a slope facing Sagami Bay, so the view stays with you on the walk between the plum garden, azaleas, and teahouse.

Plum Garden (January–February)

About 360 mature trees of red and white plum varieties bloom around February, the blossoms evoking Ogata Kōrin's National Treasure Red and White Plum Blossoms on view inside. The season overlaps with the Atami Baien Plum Festival held in town (January–March), and the early plum scent reaches the path before the trees come into view.

Azalea Garden (Late April–May)

About 3,600 plants in roughly 40 varieties, peaking from late April through May.

Late Autumn Foliage (Mid-November–Early December)

MOA is known for one of Japan's latest fall color seasons (per MOA's official site) — colors arrive mid-November through early December, weeks after most of the country has finished. If you missed Kyoto's peak in early November, MOA gives you a second chance on the same trip.

Natural Garden & Sakura

The Natural Garden, including a picnic area, opens on select seasonal days — check the official site for current openings. From late March to early April, Somei-Yoshino cherry trees (Japan's most common variety) come into full bloom here, and the view of the sea framed by the blossoms is spectacular.

Dining

Four dining venues round out a visit: pastries, traditional Japanese cuisine, buckwheat noodles, and organic coffee with bay views. (For matcha at Teahouse Ippaku-an, see the Cultural Experiences section.)

Plus Nijo-shinmachi — a private kaiseki venue for groups of 5+ by advance reservation (3 weeks–3 days prior).

Hours, Tickets & Closed Days

Check the official calendar before traveling — if Thursday is a national holiday, the museum opens and the closure shifts to another day.

The 200-meter escalator approach is step-free, with handrails. Strollers and wheelchairs are available to borrow — just ask the entrance staff. Staff at the entrance answer practical questions in English; for in-gallery captions, Google Translate's camera function works well.

Access from Atami Station

From Tokyo Station, the Shinkansen reaches Atami in about 35 minutes by Hikari (limited stops, fewer departures; 29 minutes from Shinagawa) or about 45 minutes by Kodama, the more frequent service running every 30 minutes. For full route options, see Tokyo to Atami access guide. The museum sits 250 meters above sea level on a hilltop, so walking from Atami Station is not practical.

Route Bus

From Stop #8 at Atami Station Bus Terminal, take the bus bound for MOA Museum of Art (final stop). The ride takes about 7 minutes, and accepts cash or IC cards. Exit the ticket gate at Atami Station and turn left to find the bus stops. visitatami's bus stops guide shows the layout of all Atami Station bus stops.

Taxi

A taxi from Atami Station takes about 7 minutes.

By Car

Free parking for 200 vehicles on the museum grounds, open 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM.

Plan Your Visit

A typical visit takes 2.5 to 3 hours, covering the galleries, the 200-meter approach, and the sea-facing square. Plan four hours if you want to include Yoroizuka pastries or matcha at Teahouse Ippaku-an.

For other Atami stops to combine with MOA, see Kinomiya Shrine and Kiunkaku.

FAQ

Q1. Are MOA Museum's three National Treasures always on display?

The three works appear periodically on the official exhibition schedule, so all three are not always on view at the same time. Beyond the National Treasures themselves, the architecture, gardens, and hilltop sea views give every visit plenty to take in. For current displays, check the official exhibition schedule before you go.

Q2. Should I buy tickets in advance?

You can buy tickets at the entrance on the day, and same-day entry is generally available. For peak periods — special exhibitions, weekends, or holidays — we recommend buying ahead at MOA's official online ticket site to skip the queue. Hours and pricing are confirmed on the official website.

Q3. Can I pay with a foreign credit card or mobile payment?

Yes — MOA's online ticket site and on-site ticket counters accept major international credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, JCB, American Express, Diners Club, Discover) and mobile QR payments including Alipay and WeChat Pay, as well as PayPay and LINE Pay. Cafés on site generally accept foreign cards. Carrying some yen as backup is sensible since acceptance can vary by terminal.

Q4. What's a good rain-day plan at MOA?

MOA works well as a rainy-day plan — the galleries, Circular Hall, escalator approach, and dining venues are all indoors, and the 200-meter Light Walk is fully covered. The Moore Square sea views and gardens are outdoor and best in clear weather. On a rainy day, spend more time in the galleries and at Yoroizuka, and skip the gardens unless rain is light.